Croatia in Three Wineries

Upon arrival to Croatia it’s easy to see why tourism fuels the local economy: the climate, castles, cuisine, and cruising combine to create an atmosphere that is classically Mediterranean yet distinctly Croatian, drawing millions of tourists annually from around the world.

But perhaps lesser known beyond its borders is that Croatian soil boast all the ingredients for world-class wine production, and therefore the country makes a great destination for wine tasting. And, as it turns out, the country’s most famous oenological export was only recently discovered to have Croatian roots: Tribidrag – or Zinfandel as it’s better known globally – is the ancestor of several indigenous Croatian grapes.

On my most recent trip to Croatia I visited three family-owned wineries, each with their own atmosphere, charm, and wine varietals.

Full disclaimer: I enjoy wine, but I am not at all an expert. For more on the quality of the wines at these wineries, please see their numerous accolades. For an honest “vibe check” however, read on.

Ante Sladić Vino

This family-owned winery is located about an hour and a half north of Split and makes for a perfect lunchtime destination after a morning spent marveling at the waterfalls at nearby Krka National Park. This area has a unique microclimate, with warm days and cool nights, and air and soil influenced by the Krka River and the Adriatic Sea, all of which combine to create unique yet ideal conditions for growing grapes. As you drive from the national park, the road snakes its way uphill, past vineyards and farmhouses, until you reach the village of Plastovo, where the unassuming Ante Sladić tasting room fits in among the small homes.

Drinking wine here in the tasting room is as local as it gets: the grapes – only indigenous varieties– are grown in vineyards just outside of town, as well as on the hills of nearby Skradin. The winery produces seven different wines (whites, reds, and a rose), two liqueurs made from their wines and local herbs and fruits, and two olive oils.

The tastings on offer range from a simple selection of three to four wines paired with homemade bread and optional appetizers, to a seven-course meal paired with four to six wines for small groups. During the summer months lunch is served on the outdoor covered patio, which can comfortably seat roughly 35 people. On my November visit, however, the rain and cold wind drove us inside to the cozy indoor tasting room. Here, a cheery fire in the fireplace warmed me up before the wine had its turn.

We sampled four wines and two liqueurs, paired with five well-portioned courses. We started with a glass of Debit, a fresh white wine so called because it was once used by peasants to pay off invading soldiers in exchange for safety. You can’t sit down in Croatia without being immediately presented a plate of meat and cheese, so this first wine was accompanied by a plate of locally smoked pršut (prosciutto), olives, and renowned Pag cheese, as well as bread with orange marmalade and their two featured olive oils. Next was my favorite, Maraština, a full-bodied white wine once prescribed as a medicine, accompanied by a hearty noodle soup. This was followed by Lasina, a fruity white, served with Skradin risotto, one of the best dishes I had on my eleven days in Croatia. Lunch finished with an orange wine, Debit Oya Noya, named after a traditional song, that complemented a small but dense square of chocolate cake. To cleanse the palate, we were then served fresh figs with fig jam as we sampled the two liqueurs.

The atmosphere couldn’t have been more hygge, as the fire crackled and a soft playlist filled the room. We were only reminded of the rain when our friendly and knowledgeable host would enter through the wooden double doors to educate us about the next wine or deliver the next plate of food.

I didn’t want to leave. I could only imagine how nice it would be to experience a tasting here, sitting on the garden patio among friends or family in the warmth of a sunny summer day. If you are in the area (in any type of weather), the Ante Sladić winery is truly worth a visit.

Sample day’s itinerary: Drive from Split to Krka National Park, followed by lunch at Ante Sladić Vino, with a visit to Šibenik in the afternoon.

Winery Rizman

Continuing south along the coast enroute to Dubrovnik is Winery Rizman, a sleek and sophisticated winery perched on the top of the hill. With its grand gate, modern design and neat rows of grapes, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in California Wine Country. But as you sit out on the patio on a clear day, the hills that surround you roll down into water a shade of blue that can only be Mediterranean.

For this family-owned winery, winegrowing can be traced back to the early 20^th century when the patriarch, whose nickname was Rizman, planted and cultivated eight thousand vines in nearby Opuzen, which he then processed into wine. Since then the family tradition has flourished to include 22 hectares of new vineyards and 1700 olive trees. In addition, the family created Komarna, the youngest wine growing region in Croatia, where all producers are registered organic.

Honoring local indigenous varieties, Plavac mali and Pošip make up 90% of the vines grown at Winery Rizman. Rizman makes nine wines, including the genetically Croatian Tribidrag (Zinfandel).

The tasting room abuts the vineyard, and sits atop the distillery, meaning that the grapes you drink may never have travelled very far from where they were grown.

The tasting room offers four tasting menus, the simplest of which includes four wines alongside small bites. The most lavish tasting is a two-hour experience featuring lunch or dinner paired with several wines, and includes a tour of the newly remodeled wine cellar.

On my visit I sampled Pošip (white), Rusula (rose), Tribidrag (aka Zinfandel) and Primus Plavac Mali (red). Here again I was happily supplied a plate of pršut and hard cheese, as well as a sardine salad and bruschetta. Though chilly on my November visit, the sea glittered in the afternoon light until, over the course of my tasting, the sun slowly dipped behind the hills of the Pelješac peninsula. You can’t ask for a better place to watch the sunset. And if, after your tasting, you just don’t want to leave, perhaps one of the three onsite rooms of the Winery Rizman B&B is available. (Though booking these rooms in advance is, of course, recommended.)

In addition to the hilltop winery and tasting room, Rizman operates a roadside rest stop on state road D8. On a sunny day it’s the perfect place to rest your eyes from the road and sip a glass of wine (or coffee or ice cream for the driver) at one of the covered picnic tables, with the Komarna wine region sprawling across the low hills that unfold at your feet.

Sample day’s itinerary: Drive from Split to Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina, then visit Rizman Winery on your way to Dubrovnik.

Brajković Winery

The Konavle region of Croatia covers the southernmost tip of the country, and is practically all coastline. The area is thick with vineyards and olive groves, and you can’t go wrong with a visit to any one of the tasting rooms here, which is known for its wine production.

After working up a thirst at nearby Sokol Fortress where I climbed up and down many tall stone stairs for a windswept view of the valley, I visited Brajković Winery. Anchoring the estate is the family house, a 300 year old building that still retains the original cypress beams and features a preserved 100 year old wine cellar. Also on site is a four-bedroom holiday house for rent, complete with a terrace and outdoor pool.

Upon arrival I was greeted with a bowl of traditional arancini (sugared orange peels), sugared almonds, and a small glass of sweet, ruby red wine liqueur. The main room is long and low-ceilinged, with a few big tables and benches for a family-style atmosphere that is both rustic and refined.

The most popular wines on offer are Dubrovačka Malvasija and Plavac Mali, but they also produce other reds and whites, as well as olive oil. Home-smoked pršut and salami and cheese accompany their wine tastings, and I can attest that their Malvasija is very crisp and easy to drink.

As the house is located near a string of other wineries, Brajković is easy to include on a tour of wineries in the Konavle region.

Sample day’s itinerary: Drive from Dubrovnik to Sokol Fortress, then visit Brajković Winery, then back to Dubrovnik for a free afternoon in the city.

With Vaya Adventures you can include a visit to any or all of the above wineries, which can easily combine with other tours or nearby activities.

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