The Best Way to Explore Both Sides of Iguazu Falls

What’s the best way to explore both sides of Iguazu Falls, the largest waterfall system in the world? Why, with one of Vaya’s expert local guides, of course!

The logistics of visiting this natural wonder that straddles the borders of Brazil and Argentina can get complicated. The main aim of my recent trip was to see Iguazu in all its glory from as many angles as possible. It would be a shame to come all this way and not experience what the different aspects the Brazilian and Argentine sides have to offer. Like most travelers to this location, I only had a couple days, and with limited time it would be quite the hassle trying to navigate it without an expert.

I had the pleasure of being met at the Brazilian Iguazu airport by local guide extraordinaire Vera Lúcia Swiderski. I immediately knew I was in good hands with her by my side. She is welcoming, extremely knowledgeable, and has a hearty laugh that lights up her eyes.

On the way to my hotel, Sanma (a newly remodeled luxury hotel with mid-century design aesthetic), Vera informed me of the plan for the next couple of days. She made sure to ask about my interests so that she knew what to focus on while I was exploring her gorgeous backyard.

Vera was born and raised in Iguazu and has an infectious admiration for the nature that abounds in this astounding neck of the woods. She has a knack for making conversation as she explains things, rather than just dumping information on you like a pre-recorded audio guide.

Vera herself is a representation of the varied history of Brazil. Her maternal great-grandfather was a cacique (chief) of a local Guarani tribe, while her Polish last name is from her father’s side, who immigrated to the Americas in search of a better life.

I had a late-night arrival from Manaus after I’d been in the Amazon for 10 days. I woke up groggy for our tour of the bird park and Brazilian side of the falls. Vera joined me for a coffee as I finished up a yummy breakfast spread and chatted. Her ability to set the tone for the day at a relaxed pace was much appreciated.

Sanma is conveniently located directly next to Parque das Aves bird park. I happened to be in Iguazu while South American schools were on a break, which meant the lines were rather long. Vera maneuvered through the crowd as nimble as a hummingbird to get our tickets. I followed her lead, and we easily flitted past large tour groups to the entrance.

Inside the park, there were signs explaining the goal of the family-owned project. It is the only institution in the world solely focused on Atlantic Rainforest aviation conservation. Vera was a treasure trove of information about the birds and the efforts to help preserve their remaining habitat. I got to ogle at curious toucans and massive scarlet and blue & gold macaws. It was super cool to see these feathered critters up-close after spying on them through binoculars in the Amazon.

Afterwards we headed towards the Brazilian Iguazu National Park entrance, five minutes away by car. We drove through a thick forest, catching glimpses of wild birds along the way. Walking up to the first vista point, I felt like I was going to get swallowed up in the vastness of the view in the most delightful way. I was reminded of gawking at the Grand Canyon and feeling the same overwhelming sensation of awe. Sometimes nature has a way of belittling you, where all you can really do is just stand there and say “Wow!” I mean this waterfall isn’t famous for just being a trickle, it is a full-on spectacle. The scale and raw power of it made my jaw drop and my skin tingle.

We walked along the trails as Vera giddily showed me flowers and trees and explained their different medicinal uses and names in the local language – Guarani. Vera’s familiarity with local folklore and the ecosystem gave spectacular insight. She pointed out the different butterflies and bird sounds that were on display in the sub-tropical forest that surrounds Iguazu.

After reaching the end of the trails and getting soaked by rain and raucous cascades, we went to dry off and have lunch in a restaurant perched at the edge of the falls. As we drove back to Sanma, Vera’s eclectic and tasteful playlist helped compose the mood. “O Leaozinho” by Caetano Veloso – a dreamy acoustic lullaby that has a catchy whistling part came on the speakers. I had first heard the song in Paraty, a picturesque coastal town during my Brazilian honeymoon years before. I had phenomenal pangs of nostalgia, and having this song as part of the soundtrack for this special moment in Iguazu felt divine.

The next morning after a fantastic night’s sleep, I was ready and raring to wander around the extensive Argentine trails. I was prepared for a long slog to get across the border, but as Vera and the punctual and professional driver Mauricio have special access tourism badges, we rushed past the lanes of heavy traffic. I felt like a rockstar-diplomat VIP.

It was hectic as we arrived at the Argentine national park entrance. The Devil’s Throat trail had just opened again after months and months of being closed for repairs from a ferocious flood. Vera swooped through the swarm of tourists to grab our tickets as I did a bit of souvenir shopping. There were some handsome hand-carved toucans and coatis (cute rainforest cousins to racoons) that were perfect presents for nephews and nieces.

Vera came to find me, and we made our way to the train to the Devil’s Throat Trail. She said that, even though Brazil has the most iconic view, Argentina claims the larger chunk of land and gets you up closer to the source. I definitely found that to be true! The closest access to the falls is absolutely from the Argentine side. Walking on the new bridges that lead to Devil’s Throat, you are literally on the rivers that feed into the roaring falls.

The local legends about unrequited love and destruction, yearning and carnage, that this natural wonder has inspired unquestionably came from the tangible force felt here. If the devil ever needed to clear his throat and let out a howl anywhere in the world, this would certainly be nature’s Carnegie Hall or Colosseum to deliver shivers down mortal’s spines.

I was so happy not to be traveling in a large group. Vera and I were able to weave our way through the flocks and find moments to take in the landscape as we meandered back to have lunch. I found the food and overall vibes of the restaurants on both sides an interesting juxtaposition. They are a stone’s throw away from each other but do a good job at showcasing the culinary differences between the two largest countries in South America.

After an enchanting and bustling day at the Argentine Iguazu National Park, Vera and I said goodnight. I was happy to have a delicious gin and tonic at the adults only pool where I was staying at the Loi Suites (a gorgeously located hotel that embraces the rainforest). Taking in the miraculous lilac hues while floating in a pool that I had all to myself may have been one of the most memorable sunsets of my life. Although it was Vera’s intimate perspective that impacted me the greatest about my time at Iguazu.

Vaya has top-notch guides that we work with all over the globe, and I am so very thankful that I got to explore this extraordinary corner of the world with Vera. Muito obrigado, minha amiga.

If you would like to stay within the park itself and have privileged access to the Brazilian National Park, you can also stay at the luxurious and historic Belmond Hotel das Cataratas. For chic and modern accommodations with unparalleled views of the Argentine Falls, stay at Meliá Iguazu Resort & Spa.

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