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Posted by Annie Merkley on February 13th, 2025
If having a Dolomite hiking adventure is at the top of your list for 2025, why not add a night or two in South Tyrol’s charming capital city?
Last year, I went to visit one of my best friends who lives in Bolzano, Italy. My friend Leanne and I met almost 20 years ago while working for a summer on an island called Ischia in the Bay of Naples. It was love at first sight, and we’ve been in each other’s lives ever since. She is originally from Canada but has called Italy home, living in South Tyrol (or Alto Adige) since our summer in the Ischian sun.
Visiting a place where you have someone with the inside scoop is always going to make for an amazing trip (this is why Vaya’s local guides are so beloved). Leanne had previously lived in Brunico, closer to the Austrian border. So, even though I had visited her there several times before, this was my first time staying in Bolzano—and I left wanting to return!
With fascinating history, castle hikes, top-notch food, wine, and a scenic cable car ride, here are 5 reasons to check out Bolzano in the Italian Alps.
Visit the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, home to Ötzi, a 5,300-year-old mummified man, offering a glimpse into prehistoric life.
If you’re like me and love a bit of macabre history, you may have heard of Ötzi—one of the most well-preserved natural mummies from around 3,300 BCE, during the Copper Age. His body was discovered in 1991 on the border of Austria and Italy. Some hikers came across him and mistook him for a recently deceased person, even looking for a passport. I was mesmerized when I saw him in person at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology. His glistening leathery skin and clothing, which were in pristine condition, and perfectly intact prehistoric tools, captivated me. I almost felt I could walk in his shoes, just for a flash, in those long-past times. The museum is located in the old city center and is a must for those interested in learning about what life was like for humans in this region over 5,000 years ago.
There’s a wide range of hikes around Bolzano, featuring anything from forested paths to rugged cliffs, and ranging from an easy stroll to challenging day hike. Bolzano’s hikes offer castles with panoramic views, well-preserved medieval frescoes, and an ancient fortress that stands as a museum focusing on the relationship between humans and mountains.
Sitting in Leanne’s lovely apartment with large windows, I felt like the luckiest teleworker alive. There I was, surrounded by vineyards and orchards with views of Alpine mountains and 12th-century castles while answering emails. During my time away from the computer, I reveled in walking around this stunning area. There are several hikes to enjoy, with trails for all fitness levels, from meandering paths through vineyards and gentle hills to more strenuous mountain ascents and even rock climbing.
Each castle and its view of the surrounding valley is unique, offering both natural and manmade beauty to admire. Along the way, there are all sorts of spectacular eateries and taverns to stop at to quench your thirst and stave off hunger. In fact, these hikes are a great way to work off some of the calories from all the delicious food to indulge in!
Dine at Lowengrübe, Bolzano’s oldest restaurant. Founded in 1543, it has a stellar wine cellar boasting over 1,000 bottles of wine.
Every nice restaurant in this area works with local, seasonal ingredients—that’s the way South Tyrol rolls. But it’s the unique combination of cultures (Austro-Italian) that creates the perfect plate of amazing baked goods, dairy products, cured meats, and culinary techniques. Lowengrübe’s head chef, Michael Meister, has a flair for deliciousness! He was our server when Leanne and I sat down, and I immediately knew we were in expert hands.
I went for the chef’s tasting menu, and he introduced me to a wine of the region based on my love for Nebbiolo (a Piedmont grape that is lighter-bodied but has full-bodied characteristics). Santa Maddalena, or Sankt Magdalener, is harvested from the gorgeous vineyards on the hillsides above Bolzano. Huck Am Bach St. Magdalener was an elegant bottle of wine that was well-priced and light enough to pair with some of the softer flavors at the start of the tasting menu. It also had enough depth and layers to stand up to the richest dishes, like mashed potatoes with grilled foie gras topped with fresh black truffles. I loved every bite and every sip of this exquisite dining experience.
Discover Bolzano’s centuries-old wine culture by sampling local specialties like Lagrein, Santa Maddalena, and Gewürztraminer.
Those who know me know that I’ve long loved wine. I even studied it at Escuela de Sommeliers in Santiago, Chile. Bolzano is quite literally known as the “City of Wines.” It is hands-down a destination I would recommend for wine fanatics. With a wine history that dates back thousands of years, there is archaeological evidence of viticulture from pre-Roman times. Its history is shaped by its position at the crossroads of Italian and Austrian traditions, and its alpine-meets-Mediterranean climate is perfect for innovation. Due to all the microclimates with vineyards at different elevations, it is also a place where historic vineyards are experimenting with planting small batches of different varietals in response to climate change.
Leanne and I went to have lunch and a tasting at Alois Lageder, pioneers of biodynamic viticulture in the region. Their restaurant and wine shop are about 16 miles south of Bolzano, in an enchanting village named Magrè, which has medieval roots. We had a lovely light lunch with ingredients from the farm, followed by a tasting that made me want to buy copious amounts of wine.
Alas, with international luggage restrictions, I only indulged in three bottles to share with loved ones back in Chile. While there, I learned that Magrè is part of the South Tyrolean Wine Road (Weinstrasse), which runs through Bolzano. Established in 1964, it is the oldest “Strada del Vino” in Italy. It connects 16 picturesque towns and spans about 90 miles. I now have a new goal in life: to return with my sisters and do this route on bikes—or, knowing us, e-bikes, as that is also an option.
Take the historic Renon (Ritten in German) Cable Car to panoramic alpine villages, a route used since 1908, offering remarkable views and a connection to the region’s past.
If you’ve been hiking for a few days and feel like resting your legs while being hoisted to great heights to admire the Dolomites—an entire mountain range that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site—then this cable car ride is for you. This 12-minute ride is as scenic as it gets.
Heading up to the top of Oberbozen, you’ll get glimpses of ancient villages, vineyards, castles, and limestone mountains galore! The Rosengarten Mountain range is on vivid display, with its jagged peaks cutting into the sky. It may not be as well-known as the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (three rugged peaks that are an icon of the Dolomites), but it is part of Europe’s largest high-elevation plateau, and the grey zeniths light up pink at sunset in a celestial blaze. If you find yourself in this magical, extraordinary part of Italy, this is certainly a sight to be seen. Oh, and also eat and drink everything—you won’t regret it.
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